Faster Hair Growth in a Bottle: Myth or Fact?

In our fast paced society, we are always looking for ways to cut time, save money, go faster, do more, and do it better. Well, hair care is no different! Billions of dollars are spent every year in search of that “miracle” product that will fill in our thinning hair lines, repair heat damaged hair, smooth the frizzes, and grow the long hair we’ve often dreamed of, without the assistance of weaves. In my search for the “grow-hair-to-my-waist- in-a year” guaranteed results routine, I’ve come across hundreds of tedious regimens, countless you-tube how-to videos, and numerous commercial products that promise to grow my hair 1 inch EVERY month! Well, we all know that what works for one may not work for another. So how do we find what works for us? What are the common elements in all hair care routines? Simple! Any well rounded hair regimen will include cleansing, strengthening, and conditioning. Cleansing the hair is accomplished by a hair specific rotation of clarifying and conditioning shampoos. Clarifying shampoos thoroughly remove product build-up and heavy oils from hair; while conditioning shampoos offer softness, detangling, and moisture. Strengthening the hair is vital to growth as well. The hair is strengthened through regular application of protein based conditioners for 15 minutes or more. However, applying protein too often can also lead to hair breakage; as it does serve the “harden” and fortify the hair. So it is essential to follow all protein treatments with moisturizing conditioners. Conditioning the hair aids in keeping it lubricated and moisturized, helps build elasticity, and gives hair a natural, healthy sheen.
So when you’re struggling to put together an effective regimen to grow your hair or just keep it in optimal health, remember you can keep it simple and still get results by just ensuring that you include each of those three elements. Happy hair growing!

Protective Styles - Are They for You?

Any hairstyle that doesn't brush up against your clothes is a protective style, also called a "No Contact Style." When your hair reaches shoulder length, it's at the most vulnerable point. Without the use of protective styles throughout the week, the ends of the hair will continue to rub back and forth across cotton shirts and blouses causing severe splitting damage and breakage. Since your hair will be making contact with your clothes, this is the time to wear your hair off the shoulders. When you leave your hair out in the open air every day, the ends will soon dry out. If this is allowed to continue over the course of weeks or months length potential may never be seen. When the hair grows at least 3-4 inches past the shoulders, it is not so vulnerable to break. The ends of your hair will not be sweeping against your clothing but will be lying on your clothing. This is less friction against your hair. Undeniably, there are still many women with shoulder length hair that won't seem to grow past that. Protective styles are a great way to push the hair past this growth plateau. Although, there are many women who can grow their hair to great lengths without ever resorting to protective styles-for many of us, protective styling is a very effective hair growing and retention tool. The ideal protective style is one that has been achieved without heat. Reducing the amount of heat in your regimen is critical to the success of your growing out journey. Hair that is heat styled less tends to thicker, fuller, and healthier. Protective styling for relaxed heads is the optimal styling choice for maximum retention.

Scalp Stimulation and Hair Growth

“Scalp-stimulating” massages are a crucial part of your healthy hair regimen. Massages should be done daily to improve circulation, help nourish the scalp and keep the skin loose, which allows the blood to flow easily to the roots of the hair.

How to Do a Proper Scalp Massage :

Place all ten fingertips firmly on your head. Arch your hands and make sure the palms aren’t touching the scalp. Remember, only the pads of the fingers should be pressing against the scalp. Stay in this arched position and “scrunch” the scalp by drawing your fingers together. Hold for 5 to 10 seconds and then spread the fingers apart. Imagine flexing and unflexing the fingers, while the fingertips are resting on the scalp. Repeat this technique at different positions on the scalp; moving from front to back, then back to front.

After massaging, your scalp will feel tingly and refreshed. After you’ve gotten the hang of it, you might try adding essential oils or herb-infused oils to your daily massage. Regular massages with nutrient-rich oils can do wonders for abused hair that needs a bit of life and shine and to leave it silky smooth. Try the following scalp-stimulating oil mix with your next massage.

• 1Tbsp./10 ml Coconut oil
• 1 Tbsp./10 ml Almond oil
• 1Tbsp./10 ml Evening primrose oil
• 1Tbsp./10 ml Jojoba oil
• 5 drops Rosemary oil
• 5 drops Chamomile Roman oil
• 5 drops lavender oil
• 5 drops peppermint or tea tree oil

Learn more healthy hair care tips.

Most Common Reasons for Breakage When Using Relaxers

Why are so many African American women experiencing problems with their hair? It could be due to the fact that about 95% of us use chemical relaxers in our hair. These are the most common reasons women experience breakage when using chemical relaxers.

Applying relaxers to damaged hair. Relaxers should never be applied to already damaged hair, or on someone who has had scalp damage. Hair should be in its best shape before attempting to chemically relax it. This means that the porosity and moisture content should be normal. If hair is not at its best, then protein and moisture treatments should be used to restore the hair to a healthy condition. The relaxer should not be applied until these issues have been completely resolved. A hair analysis can be used to determine if porosity and moisture content is normal.

Over processing the hair. Excessive use of relaxers or applying the chemical to previously relaxed hair, is the most typical misuse of these chemicals.

Not performing a strand test. A “strand test” should be performed prior to applying a chemical relaxer to gauge the result of applying the chemical.

Not using a protective cream on the scalp. A protective cream should always be applied to help protect the scalp from being damaged or burned.

Not properly neutralizing the hair. After the hair has been processed for the appropriate amount of time, the relaxer must be completely removed with warm water. Then a neutralizing formula is used to lower the pH of the hair. If the pH is not lowered, the hair will break. This is because the chemical will continue to work on the hair strand weakening it further.

Pulling or Combing Hair While Relaxing. From the time the relaxer is applied to the time it is neutralized, the hair is in an extremely fragile condition and must be handled carefully. Avoid all pulling, tugging, and excessive combing of the hair during this time.

Not using protein and moisture treatments. Protein and Moisture treatments should be used to restore some of the natural moisture and proteins that have been stripped from the hair by the relaxer.

Not moisturizing daily. Daily moisture is needed to keep the hair soft and supple. If newly chemically straightened hair is not properly moisturized, it can become brittle, dry, damaged and break. Relaxed hair will tend to be drier and break easier than natural hair.

Using excessive heat. Excessive use of heat tools will only further damage chemically relaxed hair. This is due to the fact that they work by drying the hair our ever further. If heat tools are used, then they should be used along with thermal protectants. Use of heat tools should be limited as much as possible.

Relaxers Causing Problems for Black Hair Growth

Many black women have reported chemical relaxers to have caused hair breakage, hair thinning, lack of hair growth, scalp irritation, scalp damage, and hair loss.

Relaxers straighten the hair by breaking down protein bonds in naturally curly hair, and thus loosening the natural curl pattern. However, these protein bonds are what gives the hair its strength. When the hair is straightened, it actually changes the basic structure of the hair shaft. The chemicals penetrate the hair’s cortex and enter the inner layer of the hair. They go on breaking down the bonds and stripping the hair of its strength and elasticity. This is why breakage is commonly experienced by women who use relaxers.

Relaxers are made with very strong chemicals. In fact, the straightening effect of the chemicals used in relaxers was discovered by Garret Morgan while working on an invention for sewing machine lubricating liquid. The chemicals used in relaxers are also used in household drain cleaners. This demonstrates the strength and potential effect of these chemicals. The ph value of chemical relaxers vary from 10 to 14 and are very effective as a straightening solution. However, these very strong chemicals can cause severe damage to hair and skin.

Essentially, there are two basic types of chemical relaxers: Sodium Hydroxide (lye relaxers) and Guanidine Hydroxide (no lye relaxers). While it is common belief that no lye relaxers are not damaging, this is not true. Both of these types of relaxers can cause damage.

If you make the decision to chemically relax your hair, you need to make sure that you only allow it to process for the amount of time indicated on the instructions and that you properly neutralize. It is also important to use protein and moisture treatments to keep the hair strong. Follow these tips to keep hair healthy and promote faster hair growth.